Friday, December 14, 2012

Alone in Kyoto

Kyoto was the ancient Japanese capital.  I was told by others that it was a highlight of their visits to Japan, so I took the better part of a day in Itami/Osaka to make my way to the city.

Just traveling to Kyoto by way of Osaka was an adventure. This was my first solo outing on Japan Railway Co (JR) lines.  I did some research and Google selected the optimum trains, assuming I was departing right away. I noted the trains, but when I walked to the Itami JR station I was confronted by a number of similar trains, but none exactly as Google described. I was on my own!  I resolved to get to Osaka, then disembark and get my bearings to move on to Kyoto.

I consulted the route map, purchased fare for Kyoto, determined which trains/platforms were bound for Osaka, and kept a close eye on the electronic display for the stops (displayed in both Japanese and Roman script) while referring to the wall chart.

I arrived at the incredibly busy Osaka station (the greater Osaka area has 18 million population) and followed the color coding to the Kyoto Line and got on a train - still a bit unsure.  Then the weirdness began. The train's electronic display kept presenting the same station name repeatedly, plus stating "Next Stop - Kyoto" repeatedly. I could only peer out the window at each platform stop to double check the station name. Finally we began to approach a large station and the tracks spread out into a large switchyard and many platforms.  Kyoto at last!  My trip from Itami city had taken about an hour, as expected.

Kyoto has so many landmarks, there was no way to see it all on foot in one day.  I already planned to head due north to the ancient Imperial Palace, and catch whatever sights I could on the way. I was a bit startled by the scope of the city - it was big and bustling.  I was expecting something a bit quieter, like Kamakura. 



I set out in the cold and wind toward my objective. It wasn't long before I saw my first landmark.  A huge temple was on the main road just north of the JR station. Barn-like shelters had been constructed over several temple buildings to protect them during long term restoration work.



I pressed on toward the Imperial grounds.  It turned out to be over two miles from the station.  The grounds were a half mile wide and one mile long, but strangely vacant.  A few walked their dogs in the wide, wind swept gravel thoroughfares.  Official vehicles slowly patrolled the walls of the Imperial Palace.


The palace itself was closed to visitors, so I satisfied myself with visiting some of the shrines and a mansion.



The medieval Japanese house had ceiling beams below my forehead - clearly occupied by people considerably shorter than 6' 1".

Now getting hungry and more than a bit tired, I turned back to the station.  Along the way I saw a building with a strange concrete form on the roof, public art of sorts.


I pressed on for my hours ride home on the rush hour trains.


Kyoto is far too broad for a spontaneous trip and really needs more time, but I had no regrets.  Maybe I can return someday with friends.




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